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Mario Fung

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New York: Le Bernardin (3*)

Le Bernardin is a distinguished seafood restaurant in New York City, renowned for its elegant dining experience and exquisite French cuisine.

Dining at Le Bernardin was easily one of the highlights of my recent trip to New York. After reading countless positive reviews, I was curious to see what many consider the city’s top restaurant — and one of the most expensive dining experiences in the world — was really like.

Le Bernardin has long been a cornerstone of fine dining in Manhattan. It’s held three Michelin stars every year since the guide launched in New York back in 2005, and it’s also maintained a rare four-star review from The New York Times since 1986 — a feat in a city where tastes and trends shift constantly. The focus here is classic French seafood, with a strong sense of tradition. This isn’t the place for culinary theatrics or experimental “foam” dishes. Instead, it delivers an experience that feels elegant, assured, and very much part of the old guard of New York fine dining.

View fullsize "Tuna"
"Tuna"
View fullsize "Salmon-Caviar"
"Salmon-Caviar"
View fullsize "Dover Sole"
"Dover Sole"
View fullsize "Halibut"
"Halibut"

Reservations open on the first of each month and can be made through Resy or by phone. I managed to secure a table for 5pm on a Saturday night with the help of the concierge team at Aman New York, where we were staying.

I went with the 8-course Chef’s Tasting Menu at $350, which was both flavourful and very filling — especially coming from Asia, where portion sizes tend to be more modest. A few dishes stood out more than others, but overall the meal was very solid.

Service was exactly what you’d expect from a restaurant of this calibre: quietly precise, warm without being intrusive, and full of thoughtful touches. At one point, after a visit to the restroom, I returned to find my slightly soiled napkin had been replaced without a word. Tables were subtly cleared of crumbs between courses, dishes were introduced with detail and at a comfortable rhythm, and water glasses were never left empty. Wine was topped up just as the last sip approached — all done seamlessly, without prompting or performance. It was the kind of attentive yet invisible service that defines true fine dining.

I’d give the experience an 8.5 out of 10.


Le Bernardin
155 W 51st St, New York, NY 10019, United States

Phone: +1 212-554-1515
Menu: le-bernardin.com
Instagram: @lebernardinny


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categories: Restaurants
Saturday 05.10.25
Posted by Mario Fung
 

Shanghai: Capella Jian Ye Li

Capella Shanghai is a luxury hotel located in the Jian Ye Li heritage estate of the Xuhui District.

I recently spent a long weekend in Shanghai and checked into Capella after two fantastic stays at Capella Bangkok last year.

When planning the trip, we had considered other places, like the newly opened Shanghai EDITION, which is more chic, minimalistic and modern. But in the end, Capella won us over with its charm and character — especially the shikumen (石库门) villas, which are a real part of Shanghai’s architectural history. These townhouses date back to the 19th century and blend Chinese and French design in a way that feels both unique and authentic.

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The shikumen villas at Capella were originally built in the 1930s for foreign traders and expats. By 1945, they’d become homes for local Shanghainese families, forming a tight-knit neighbourhood around narrow lanes.

Restored by Jaya Ibrahim, known for his work with Capella and Aman, each villa spans multiple levels and includes a rooftop terrace. The layout is efficient and well thought out: the ground floor has a small courtyard, a sitting area, and a powder room. Half a floor up is the entertainment room with a sofa, large TV, and a complimentary minibar.

The bedroom and walk-in wardrobe sit on the second level, and another half floor up is the bathroom, featuring a freestanding tub in the centre. Each room has windows that open to the leafy complex, adding light and ventilation. Because of the split-level design and high ceilings, the villa feels taller than it is — closer to five floors than three. Capella’s floor plan gives the clearest picture.

This floor plan is shared with guests in a welcome email.

Capella Shanghai is a small property — just 55 villas — which means the atmosphere is calm and private. The service, as I’ve come to expect from Capella, was excellent. They always seem to go a step further without being overbearing. What really sets them apart is their Culturist program — basically their concierge service, but far more thoughtful than most.

View fullsize The Library (Lobby)
The Library (Lobby)
View fullsize Outdoor seating outside the lobby
Outdoor seating outside the lobby

The Culturalist team handled all my restaurant bookings — from Michelin-starred spots to hard-to-get local favourites — without a hitch. At one point, I extended a massage at Auriga Spa from 90 to 120 minutes. Before I even asked, they’d already pushed back my lunch reservation and placed me in a virtual queue for a backup seating, just in case. A cab was also waiting for me after the treatment. I didn’t have to think about a thing.

There were other thoughtful details too: a new eyeglass cloth placed next to my glasses when I didn’t have one, a matchbox set beside a pack of cigarettes left in the courtyard, and practical touches like complimentary pressing for clothes.

That said, unlike Capella Bangkok, the property doesn’t offer much in terms of organised activities or excursions. If you're looking to explore the city, you’ll need to plan that part yourself.

View fullsize Living room
Living room
View fullsize Staircase
Staircase
View fullsize Bedroom
Bedroom

The villa itself felt completely private — great soundproofing, which you don’t always get in townhouse-style buildings. I spent mornings and evenings out on the rooftop or enjoying coffee in the courtyard. I didn’t end up using the entertainment room much, but it’s a nice space if you want to watch a film or play music.

Room service was a highlight — very cozy when served in the living room downstairs. They set it up behind the sofa, and it’s a lovely, intimate setup, perfect for a quiet meal.

Breakfast, though, was a bit of a mixed bag. It’s served at Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant. The menu is expansive and the presentation is great, but the flavours were a little bland. A daily evening happy hour is hosted in the restaurant bar (or The Library), where cocktails are offered to all guests staying at the property.

View fullsize Le Comptoir dining room
Le Comptoir dining room
View fullsize Le Comptoir bar
Le Comptoir bar

The spa and fitness centre are located in a separate building within the Auriga Spa complex.

There’s a small but beautifully designed plunge pool, covered by a canvas rooftop that can be opened to let in natural light — a nice touch on a clear day. It’s not large enough for laps, but perfect for a quick soak. The gym is compact but well equipped. We thoroughly enjoyed the spa treatment; the therapists were highly skilled and professional.

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All in all, I’d give the stay a solid 8 out of 10.

Capella Shanghai offers something different — stylish, serene, and full of personality.

Capella Shanghai Jian Ye Li
480 West Jianguo Road, Xuhui District,
Shanghai 200031

Phone: +86 21 5466 6688
Reservations: capellahotels.com/en/capella-shanghai
Instagram: @capellashanghai
WeChat: @capellashanghai


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tags: shanghai, capella, luxury
categories: Hotels
Sunday 04.27.25
Posted by Mario Fung
 

CX342 HKG–SHA: Cathay Pacific Business Class to Shanghai

Flight: CX342 HKG Hong Kong Intl to SHA Shanghai Hongqiao
Duration: 1h 56m
Date: Sunday, 27 April 2025
Scheduled Departure: 09:35 (Actual 09:56)
Scheduled Arrival: 12:05 (Actual 11:52)
Seat: 17K
Equipment: B-LAP

For a short weekend trip to Shanghai, I flew Cathay Pacific’s A330 service into Hongqiao Airport. Hongqiao is much closer to the city centre than Pudong, and also closer to Capella Shanghai, where we were staying for this trip. The whole journey from deplaning to checking into the hotel took just under an hour.

If you’re familiar with Tokyo’s airports, Hongqiao is a lot like Haneda: smaller, more efficient, and far more convenient than its larger counterpart. I was off the plane, through immigration, and in a car in about 20 minutes. From there, it was a 30-minute drive into the city.

Our flight was scheduled to depart at 9:35am, so we got to the airport around 8:00am. We stopped by the Centurion Lounge for a quick breakfast, where I opted for the abalone congee and shrimp dumplings, before heading to the gate.

View fullsize Breakfast at Centurion Lounge
Breakfast at Centurion Lounge
View fullsize View from Centurion Lounge
View from Centurion Lounge

Boarding started around 9:00am at Gate 69, right near the AMEX lounge. Cathay was testing a group-based boarding system for this flight, and business class passengers were placed in Group 2, with Diamond members in Group 1. Families and passengers needing assistance boarded first (“Group 0”).

The new system didn’t change much for those in premium cabins, but it probably helps organize things more efficiently in the economy cabin by boarding effectively by row numbers (back to front).

Cathay runs a 33J layout on this route—28 business class seats in a lie-flat, reverse herringbone setup, and a dense economy section with 265 seats. The business class seats are a bit more compact than what you’d find on their A350 or 777-300ER aircraft, with less storage space and an older IFE entertainment system. There’s no exterior camera view, and the flight map looks like something out of the early 2000s. But for a short flight, it does the job just fine.

View fullsize Boarding as Group 2
Boarding as Group 2
View fullsize Seat 17K (33J)
Seat 17K (33J)

Meal service began less than an hour after takeoff. I had already eaten Chinese food in the lounge, so I went for the Western breakfast option onboard. A selection of bread was served from a basket, and to my surprise, they were offering the full wine list even on a morning flight. I had a glass of Burgundy—why not?

One small detail I appreciated: slippers were already waiting at the seat. That’s not typical for Cathay’s regional business class, where you usually just get a pillow and a bottle of water, and a blanket only if you ask. I asked some frequent fliers and found out that slippers are always included on flights to Mainland China, as a cultural courtesy.

We landed a few minutes early, at 11:56am, and bags were on the carousel by 12:15pm. Unfortunately, my suitcase came out with a dent, despite having a fragile tag—a bit frustrating, but not uncommon.

View fullsize Western breakfast option
Western breakfast option
View fullsize Breakfast views
Breakfast views
View fullsize Lovely dent in suitcase
Lovely dent in suitcase

Overall, it was a smooth, comfortable trip. The flight was efficient, the service was solid, and getting into the city from Hongqiao was quick and easy. For a short hop from Hong Kong to Shanghai, it’s hard to ask for more.

Cathay Pacific
Airbus 330-300 (33J)

Flights: CX342
Instagram: @cathaypacific


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tags: shanghai, cathay pacific, business class
categories: Flights
Sunday 04.27.25
Posted by Mario Fung
 

CX255 HKG–LHR: Cathay Pacific Aria Suite to London

Cathay Pacific’s new Business Class Aria Suite on the Boeing 777-300ER.

I was genuinely excited to try Cathay Pacific’s new Aria Class business cabin. Originally, I had hoped to experience it on an upcoming New York long-haul, but that plan was dashed when I saw the outbound flight was an A350-1000 and the return was on a 777-300ER with first class—neither featuring the new suites. Then, by a fortunate twist of fate, a work trip to London came up, and I managed to secure seats on CX255 outbound and CX250 inbound, both fitted with the new Aria suites on the 777-300ER (77J).

Flight details

Flight: CX255 HKG Hong Kong Intl to LHR London Heathrow
Duration: 14h 23m
Date: Friday, 4 April 2025
Scheduled Departure: 23:15 (Actual 23:22)
Scheduled Arrival: 06:20 +1 (Actual 06:45 +1)
Seat: 21A
Equipment: B-KPA

View fullsize Aria Suite 21A
Aria Suite 21A
View fullsize Hidden/Enclosed storage tray
Hidden/Enclosed storage tray
View fullsize Large 24" Touchscreen IFE
Large 24" Touchscreen IFE
View fullsize Mini Touchpanel
Mini Touchpanel

Stepping on board, the first thing that struck me—something many have noted—is how much darker the cabin feels. The walls are clad in deeper tones with textured wallpaper that soaks up natural and cabin light rather than bouncing it around. The effect is a more intimate, cocoon-like atmosphere, aided by carefully calibrated soft lighting throughout the cabin and within each suite.

The seat itself feels a bit tighter in pitch, though the official measurements appear similar to the previous business class product. This sense of compression comes mainly from the smaller footwell and the fixed 24-inch IFE screen, which, unlike before, can’t be stowed away. That does reduce the feeling of usable space. On the plus side, the seat feels wider, especially thanks to the new sliding door that encloses the suite, giving a genuine sense of ownership beyond the armrest. The trade-off is narrower aisles—two people can no longer easily pass side-by-side as you could before.

The entertainment system is a standout. The large, glossy touchscreen offers vivid colours and sharp contrast, with a responsive interface that now mirrors a “Netflix-style” browsing experience. Once settled in, the screen is less imposing and more enjoyable.

Lighting gets a major overhaul here. Gone are the harsh overhead bulbs; instead, you have subtle, warm “wall lamp” lighting beside the seat. This fixture emits soft ambient light and hides three spotlights to illuminate your meal tray, footwell, and side table. It’s far more soothing and better suited for a premium cabin vibe.

The new door is a notable upgrade—finally, some privacy—but it comes with quirks. It slides out smoothly but without any floor tracks or latches, so it feels a little jittery and can’t be locked shut. While not perfect, the simplicity should help reduce maintenance headaches and, overall, a door beats no door.

The tray table design is also revamped. Instead of swinging in from the side, it pulls down and out directly in front of you, making it sturdier and larger. The downside is it’s harder to push aside if you want to step out briefly.

View fullsize Cathay Signatures: Baked crab shell and egg white fried rice
Cathay Signatures: Baked crab shell and egg white fried rice
View fullsize Chinese breakfast
Chinese breakfast

Wireless charging felt a bit hit-and-miss. It’s not clearly marked, and I struggled to find the “sweet spot” to get a charge, which was slow anyway. For now, a cable is more reliable.

Safety-wise, the seat now features a three-point seatbelt, though you only need it during takeoff and landing. You can remove the shoulder strap mid-flight for comfort, stowing it flush with the seat.

In terms of comfort, the cushioning feels unchanged—soft and supportive as before. A key improvement is the fine-tuned adjustability: you can manually tweak seat angle or pick from presets. I found the “Movie” preset particularly relaxing, turning the seat into a kind of lazy-boy perfect for movies or a nap. Lighting in the suite is also adjusted accordingly.

View fullsize Movie-mode for suite
Movie-mode for suite
View fullsize Bedding
Bedding
View fullsize Closed door — mind the gap
Closed door — mind the gap
View fullsize Open door — more private cabin
Open door — more private cabin

Sleeping on the Aria suite was generally excellent, helped by the door’s privacy which blocked aisle movement, neighbouring lights, and ambient noise. However, the cabin air on the 777-300ER still felt dry at times, leaving me a bit parched on waking—something to bear in mind. Bedding and mattress pads remain consistent with Cathay’s other long-haul business products.

Small touches impressed too. For instance, lowering the seat flat reveals a discreet touchscreen on the side console displaying arrival time and controls for seat and lighting—very handy. I also appreciated the lavatory occupancy indicator, a neat practical upgrade.

If your itinerary offers a choice, I’d recommend the Aria suite (77J) over the A350-1000 (A35K) or older 777-300ER (77A) business class cabins. On the HKG-LHR route, for example, the new suite makes a real difference—assuming you can book it at the right time.

Cathay Pacific
Boeing 777-300ER (77J) Aria Suite

Flights: CX255
Instagram: @cathaypacific


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tags: london, cathay pacific, business class
categories: Flights
Saturday 04.05.25
Posted by Mario Fung
 

MARIO FUNG