I recently spent a long weekend in Shanghai and checked into Capella after two fantastic stays at Capella Bangkok last year.

When planning the trip, we had considered other places, like the newly opened Shanghai EDITION, which is more chic, minimalistic and modern. But in the end, Capella won us over with its charm and character — especially the shikumen (石库门) villas, which are a real part of Shanghai’s architectural history. These townhouses date back to the 19th century and blend Chinese and French design in a way that feels both unique and authentic.

The shikumen villas at Capella were originally built in the 1930s for foreign traders and expats. By 1945, they’d become homes for local Shanghainese families, forming a tight-knit neighbourhood around narrow lanes.

Restored by Jaya Ibrahim, known for his work with Capella and Aman, each villa spans multiple levels and includes a rooftop terrace. The layout is efficient and well thought out: the ground floor has a small courtyard, a sitting area, and a powder room. Half a floor up is the entertainment room with a sofa, large TV, and a complimentary minibar.

The bedroom and walk-in wardrobe sit on the second level, and another half floor up is the bathroom, featuring a freestanding tub in the centre. Each room has windows that open to the leafy complex, adding light and ventilation. Because of the split-level design and high ceilings, the villa feels taller than it is — closer to five floors than three. Capella’s floor plan gives the clearest picture.

This floor plan is shared with guests in a welcome email.

Capella Shanghai is a small property — just 55 villas — which means the atmosphere is calm and private. The service, as I’ve come to expect from Capella, was excellent. They always seem to go a step further without being overbearing. What really sets them apart is their Culturist program — basically their concierge service, but far more thoughtful than most.

The Library (Lobby)

Outdoor seating outside the lobby

The Culturalist team handled all my restaurant bookings — from Michelin-starred spots to hard-to-get local favourites — without a hitch. At one point, I extended a massage at Auriga Spa from 90 to 120 minutes. Before I even asked, they’d already pushed back my lunch reservation and placed me in a virtual queue for a backup seating, just in case. A cab was also waiting for me after the treatment. I didn’t have to think about a thing.

There were other thoughtful details too: a new eyeglass cloth placed next to my glasses when I didn’t have one, a matchbox set beside a pack of cigarettes left in the courtyard, and practical touches like complimentary pressing for clothes.

That said, unlike Capella Bangkok, the property doesn’t offer much in terms of organised activities or excursions. If you're looking to explore the city, you’ll need to plan that part yourself.

Living room

Staircase

Bedroom

The villa itself felt completely private — great soundproofing, which you don’t always get in townhouse-style buildings. I spent mornings and evenings out on the rooftop or enjoying coffee in the courtyard. I didn’t end up using the entertainment room much, but it’s a nice space if you want to watch a film or play music.

Room service was a highlight — very cozy when served in the living room downstairs. They set it up behind the sofa, and it’s a lovely, intimate setup, perfect for a quiet meal.

Breakfast, though, was a bit of a mixed bag. It’s served at Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant. The menu is expansive and the presentation is great, but the flavours were a little bland. A daily evening happy hour is hosted in the restaurant bar (or The Library), where cocktails are offered to all guests staying at the property.

Le Comptoir dining room

Le Comptoir bar

The spa and fitness centre are located in a separate building within the Auriga Spa complex.

There’s a small but beautifully designed plunge pool, covered by a canvas rooftop that can be opened to let in natural light — a nice touch on a clear day. It’s not large enough for laps, but perfect for a quick soak. The gym is compact but well equipped. We thoroughly enjoyed the spa treatment; the therapists were highly skilled and professional.